Observations from the Outside

Argentines speak and listen with their eyebrows constantly up; it helps them hear and focus better, it seems. Therefor, many Porteños (the people of Buenos Aires) have deep horizontal lines across the forehead.

So now that I've been here a few days, I have to report that my room mates are so fabulous and have been spoiling me rotten with delicious dinners every night. Then they bust out the Fernet and Coca Cola. A drink which will take A LOT of getting used to. It's a national obsession here. Fernet, is much like Jaegermeister- a bitter digestif that is commonly mixed with Coca Cola. WHAT? With Coca Cola? Mmm hmm. That's right.

First it was home made pizza, then it was burritos, then it was some other stir-fried magic. Stephanie, Isa and Emiliano, one big happy family... so far. I hope I don't impose on them and become too much of a third wheel. The last few meals they have insisted that I don't help them cook or help with groceries and so I just stand around, looking for something to do while insane smells come wafting out of the tiny kitchen.

Emiliano's parents (yes, both of them) are psychoanalysts, and Isa works as a secretary in their office. Emiliano seems to not work at all, he just plays one of his five instruments all day, when he and Isa are not lounging around until 2 pm, which is about when they finally fall out of bed. The two argue like crazy, but I believe its all part of their culture- they like to debate and bicker, and hold strong opinions even if they're not sure why. Emiliano is very jewish looking. He's also got that kind of nervous/intellectual/intense Jewish thing going on. He's 28, she's 26. Isa is tall and fair, with short curly hair the same color as mine. In fact, just about all the women here have the same coloring as I do, maybe a touch tanner and a lot of them with brown eyes. Point is, I really don't stick out a bit, which is really, really, really refreshing. The smog dense fog however, is not.

One thing must be known. Buenos Aires is the city of owls. On a normal night, young folks don't go to bed before 2-3 am (and that's early), dinner is eaten roughly around 10:30-11:30pm, and when going out partying, bar hopping or dancing, leaving the house before 1am is considered crazy. It just doesn't happen like that. Porteños will party until 9am, the hour when they finally stumble home, eat a croissant with thick sun glasses on, and sleep until 4pm the next day. I personally have not done this yet, and don't know if I could ever have such incredible stamina. However, I hear the city nightlife is that good.

I take it back what I said before about my Spanish being so bad. That was the first day. Now, after a good 5 days, I'm getting much more accustomed to the Argentine peculiarities and idioms.

It's also been dumping rain ever since I arrived, so I haven't been able to explore as much as I would've liked to. I mean dumping, in HUGE quantities. It sounds even louder too in my little tool-shed room since the roof is tin. I sleep with ear plugs when it rains (Thank you Delta Airlines!).

Half of our apartment is exposed to the outdoors, so the rain comes in, and we squeegee it out. It comes in, and we squeegee it out. It's quite amusing, and not at all a problem yet. (Except that I would appreciate a sunny day so I could go out without my trusty blue umbrella one of these days).

Anyway, here are my most recent observations:


Her toothbrush is pink, his is blue and I haven't heard or seen them use them once yet

When you say thank you for something, the natural Porteño response is "porfavoooor!" (Pleeease!)

I discovered the other night that a lot of people here really enjoy the sitcom Friends and House

When answering the phone its "Hola?" (As opposed to "'Alo" in Costa Rica)

The toilet flusher is on the wall

I dont stick out here at all, in fact I fit in all too well until I open my mouth

Argentines love to debate and argue

I found Catcher in they Ry and have started to read it

All keys here are the old fashion kind, heavy and beautiful

Everyone kisses on the cheek, especially when you first meet someone

On my block: Artesian ice cream, a top knotch wine shop, sushi to go, thin crust brick oven pizza, a little shop of bulk olives of all kinds in tall glass jars, a little supermarket right across from my apartment, AND a yoga studio.

There are so many dogs here, and NO ONE cleans up after them. It's imperative to watch where you step, otherwise you get a footfull of Dulce de Leche- ewwww

I'm grateful that I brought my laundry bag and my mini turkish rug that goes everywhere with me (thanks Mom)

I made the ghost leave my room, it's all mine now

Everyone smokes Malboro reds from slim packs

My room mates drink A LOT of Mate (highly caffeinated tea)

My waitress today, at one of the few vegetarian restaurants in town, was obviously Penelope Cruz' twin sister

When I finally saw a star through the sky last night, I realized how, in between all this concrete and steel, how much I will miss the forest

I also really miss Pablo

I love my door, which is red, and my window, which is green (colors which I used to hate mixing, but ever since my trip to Mexico have changed my mind)

My apartment is extremely cool (pictures to add soon)

I went into an incredible cemetery today with the most elaborate giant tombs... also where Evita is buried. Apparently real estate in this particular graveyard is more expensive than anywhere else in the city. It made me sad walking around in there. So I left and watched a goofy tourist lady play frisbie with a street kid who just wanted her to buy him an ice cream.

I made a special trek across the whole city to The Modern Museum of Latin American Art to see, well, some Latin America Art, and what exhibition was taking up the entire museum? Mr. America by Andy Warhol. Ummm, okaaaay. WTF?


Buenos Aires=
The Good Air
Good Airs
Bos Ars
BsAs
BosAs

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